An excerpt from “Touching Eternity” by Philip Scott Wikel
…the peak moments I’ve found in surfing are almost identical to those I find in writing and even sometimes when going for a bike ride. There are moments when you lose yourself, time stands still, and you’re more alive and in tune than you ever thought possible. It’s these “gone” moments that I crave. The first time I remember feeling this was when I lived on the island of Maui and surfing a spot called “Lanes.” The waves were well overhead and the swell was growing with each new set. I dropped in on a left-hander (right foot forward and facing the wave) and was swallowed entirely by water. I slowly moved back into this tropical blue vortex, my hands extended out to either side of me, and, at some point, lost all consciousness of everything. The wave spit me out a few moments later and I was back to reality. Some say the cause of is this just a rush of adrenaline, but I believe it’s more than that. It’s a moment when time and space seem to have no end and no beginning. It’s as if you’ve become one with eternity and are connected so powerfully to your present-ness in the world that all else ceases to exist. You are free from your earth-bound self and are, again, literally, in the flow; that indefinable, most times elusive, connectedness that we all wish we could inhabit forever.