One of the First Known Photographs of a Surfer…

 One of the First Known Photographs of a Surfer with his Board, c. 1890. Courtesy Bishop Museum Archive.
One of the First Known Photographs of a Surfer with his Board, c. 1890. Courtesy Bishop Museum Archive.

In 1851, the Reverend Henry T. Cheever observed surfing at Lahaina, Maui and wrote about it in his book, Life in the Hawaiian Islands, The Heart of the Pacific As it Was and Is.

“It is highly amusing to a stranger to go out to the south part of this town, some day when the sea is rolling in heavily over the reef, and to observe there the evolutions and rapid career of a company of surf-players. [The sport of surfing] is so attractive and full of wild excitement to the Hawaiians, and withal so healthy, that I cannot but hope it will be many years before civilization shall look it out of countenance, or make it disreputable to indulge in this manly, though it be dangerous, pastime.”

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